General Introduction to the United Arab Emirates
By Jane and Louise

(Updated March 2004)

We have expanded this guide to cover more cities in the U.A.E., starting with a general guide relevant for the whole U.A.E., followed by more City-specific web pages for Dubai and Abu Dhabi.   

The United Arab Emirates is made up of seven formerly independent Emirates, of which Abu Dhabi and Dubai are the largest, both geographically, and also in terms of the expatriate population.

The Weather 

For 8 months of the year you will enjoy day after day of glorious sunshine and unbroken blue skies. You can plan to barbecue, camp in the desert or on the beach, meet in the parks, or at the beach club, all safe in the knowledge that it'll not be rained off. Temperatures are at their lowest Dec/Jan and then steadily climb. April is still ok but by May it's getting hot and you spend less time outdoors. June is hot and hideously humid, July and August hotter and even more humid. September it's slowly dropping again but still too hot. October, we're back to enjoying the beach, avoiding the middle of the day, and November is perfect. Usually there's a mass exodus of mums and children July and August. Some choose to go away for the whole summer, some for part of July and most of August. I also know quite a few who stay. It's like being in England in January; you spend as little time outside as you possibly can, but here your house, your car and every building you enter are all air-conditioned. There is a lot of extra indoor entertainment laid on for the kids, and in any case, there's always plenty for them to do. I harbour a suspicion that it's really not that bad here over the summer; just a rumour put about by Dads who fancy six weeks of watching only sport on TV, early evenings in the gym, beers with the lads and lie-ins! If you're not sure what to do with your summer I have pooled the collective experience of a few mums here for an article in the Expat Magazine section.

Although only 100 miles (160 kilometers) down the road, it’s worth noting that Abu Dhabi is always several degrees warmer than Dubai.

Clothing

You will only need summer clothes when you're here, although cardigans and wraps are useful for air-conditioned restaurants and the cooler winter evenings. When deciding what to bring and what to leave behind however, keep something back for trips home. I find English summers to be cold now I'm acclimatised to the U.A.E. and need woollies and fleeces for us all, for our summer packing. And a business trip to Europe in the winter will need a heavy coat. Oh and if you have any fine Ascot-type hats, don't leave those behind; the Dubai Classic is a big event out here!

 It is normal to wear shorts around parts of Dubai (e.g. Jumeirah). However, if you're shopping in more central Dubai or anywhere in Abu Dhabi, or if you’re going anywhere where nationals congregate, or where there are a lot of men (such as Bur Dubai) you would probably feel more comfortable if you cover up a little bit; a longer skirt and nothing sleeveless. Nobody will say anything to you; there is no required mode of dress like in other Arab countries. But the local ladies do cover up and that is perceived as appropriate behaviour by many. Abu Dhabi is generally more conservative so if undecided what to wear err on the side of caution and cover up.

You'll find some very smart beachwear is worn around the beach clubs.

You can buy beautiful fabrics here and it's easy to get things made from a picture in a pattern book (the tailors have piles of them). A simple dress made up in a local tailor will cost you maybe AED 70 for the tailoring. If you have an expensive fabric you may be wiser to pay a little more.

Health, Security and Personal Safety

I've covered creepy crawlies in the housing section. My children have followed the same schedule of inoculations here as they did in Europe. A BCG is required by law, as so many people here are coming from countries where TB is prevalent. I don't know anyone taking malaria tablets here although I note the U.A.E. is within the region for which the WHO recommends them. There is little crime here and I haven't heard of any violent crime at all, but I would take all usual precautions; keep an eye on the children and not walk out on my own at night. Recently I have heard stories, through the grapevine, of cars being stolen but there is nothing in the papers. You do occasionally see children left in cars whilst their parent nips into the shops. I know a really sad story about someone who did that in Australia. I know it can be a pain to unbuckle and re-buckle but you've got to do it.

Of course there is always the threat of war in the Middle East from various factions but it's not something one considers unless a specific incident is giving rise to concern.
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Learning the Language

You may need to learn Arabic for your job but I would be surprised if business is not conducted in English. It may help to be able to exchange niceties and there are courses available. Take a look in Connector (see below) or ask your company for details. As a wife and mum I have had very little contact with Arab nationals. My main cultural exchange has been with Indians, through our housemaid and her friends, so a little Hindi would have been polite but fortunately Gracie's English is more than adequate for us to get by.

Red Tape 

The employer who is sponsoring you will have someone in the role of Mr. Fix it to take care of most of this for you. They will obtain a residence visa for the employee, who in turn will need to obtain visas for the rest of the family, as, if your husband is working, he will be your and your children's sponsor. It is handy to bring a couple of sets of passport photos for each of you, and make a few copies of your passport and original entry permit. Also bring with you original copies of your birth and marriage certificates, as you may need them. Until residence visas are obtained you cannot obtain any other documents from the government authorities - car and driving licenses, bank account, health cards, and liquor license - and being without at least four of those can be very inconvenient.

Whatever government documentation you are seeking, e.g. a telephone connection, it is worth remembering that there is always a separate queue for women and you will be served far quicker than your husband will be.

Register with your local Embassy or Consulate. They all have different rules and requirements but if you call them before going you should manage to save yourself a return visit. 

South Africa     (02) 633 7565   (04) 397 5222  

Local Currency

The local currency is the dirham (AED or Dhs), which is linked to the dollar. (AED 3.67 = US$ 1). In the last three years it strengthened considerably against the British pound, moving from AED 6 to 5.3., and then its fortunes reversed with the weakness of the dollar globally. Currently the rate is around 6.7. Most people are paid in dirhams but part of your salary may be in dollars or sterling depending on the nationality of your company.

Religion

There are many beautiful mosques in and around the U.A.E. but it is not accepted practice for non-Muslims to enter them so if you are non-Muslim, you will have to admire them from the outside. I think during Ramadan, there has been an initiative in the last couple of years whereby the doors of selected mosques (e.g. Jumeirah Mosque in Dubai) have been opened to guided tours, with the objective of increasing awareness and understanding of the Muslim faith and the culture and practices that surround it. Visit Sheikh Mohammed's Centre for Cultural Understanding (very friendly people) to obtain further information. You'll find them in The Beach Centre mall on The Beach Road. Ramadan is a month of heightened religious awareness throughout which Muslims fast during the daylight hours. Non-Muslims are not expected to fast but are expected to abstain from eating, drinking and/or smoking in public; it would be rude not to. All the cafes are closed. Hotel restaurants still operate under certain restrictions. When we arrived six years ago Ramadan fell in January. It moves back about ten days each year so that in 2004 it started in mid October.

Although the UAE is a Muslim country there is a general tolerance of other faiths here, so celebrations of Diwali, Christmas and Easter are not discouraged. There are a number of Christian churches. See the City profiles for more specific information.

Getting Around - Cars

I was warned about the driving here before I came but it's not that bad (according to Jane). Roads are wide and outside rush hours, largely empty. The school car park is full of 4 wheel drives, which are a pleasure to drive. And although you do come across sporadic moments of absolute madness, I have known other countries where there have only been sporadic moments of sanity on the roads. You drive differently to how you would in the UK. You don't expect any particular lane discipline and are more vigilant in anticipation of some lunatic whizzing past you at 140km down the hard shoulder. Off the motorway, the driving is fine but every now and then some idiot pulls out of a side road without a sideways glance. I've had to do three emergency stops in the past three months, which is quite sobering.

Driving in Abu Dhabi is worse, much worse (according to Louise).

Rules of the Road in Abu Dhabi:

• It is against the law to talk on a mobile phone without a hands-free device.

• It is against the law to let children under10 years of age travel in the front seat.

• It is against the law to drive a dirty car!

• A certain amount of arrogance is necessary on the road.
  

• Indecisiveness will get you into trouble. 

• Cars are usually driven on the right hand side of the road.

• Bicycles are driven in any direction, usually with no lights.

• The hard shoulder is often considered a lane for very fast moving vehicles.

• Trucks are only allowed to travel in the slow lane (right hand lane).

• U-turns are necessary to get where you want to go because you can not turn left into a block.

• A U-turn is one of the few manoeuvres that involve the use of the indicators.

• Keep in mind that there are a lot of very powerful cars on the road.

• Although the speed limit is usually 60 KPH, a good number of vehicles travel at least 20 KPH faster.  There are speed cameras around; you will quickly locate these, as cars will suddenly brake in front of you.

• The bigger the car that you drive and the better your visibility the more likely you are of staying out of trouble.

• When approaching an orange traffic light, check to see what is behind you before braking.  A number of accidents occur when ‘sensible drivers’ stop for an orange light, when the car behind has other ideas.

• At large intersections chose your lane carefully.  If you want to go straight stay in the slow lane.  Cars wanting to turn left will do so from any other lane.

• Roundabouts are tricky things. Often other drivers have difficulty with the concept of lanes.

• Try and stay out of the fast lane, check your rear view mirrors regularly as you will be amazed at how quickly something can appear behind you.

• Remember horns are for hooting. A millisecond is the time it takes for the lights to turn green and the car behind you to hoot.

• When important dignitaries are on the move expect to be stopped.  This is a fairly regular occurrence, so don’t be alarmed.

I have heard recently of a number of cases of people being caught drinking and driving. A man had one beer and then was unlucky enough to be behind an accident. The police tested the drivers of several cars in the queue and he got three months in prison. If you work for the Government, you will also lose your job and hence your sponsorship and will effectively be deported. There's no acceptable alcohol limit here. It's zero tolerance so not worth it.

If you have a road accident you should telephone the police (everyone has a mobile and for your own safety, it's wise to carry one) and they come to assess who is to blame. They are usually with you within a few minutes. If they think it's you, they will sympathetically, and in my experience, apologetically hand you the pink copy of the form. The blame free motorist gets the green copy. You need to keep this form to hand to the garage as they will not fix your car without it. We have comprehensive motor insurance (and house contents/valuables insurance) with Norwich Union, tel. Dubai (04) 324 3434, Abu Dhabi (02) 677 4444.  We have had a few minor claims and no problems with the service provided. Fully comp insurance is approx. 4 -6 % of the car's value.

If you hold a British, US, Canadian or Australian driving license, you can have it converted quite simply. There is a little red tape and you will need to go to the police station for an eye test. I'm not sure about other nationalities. A South African friend had to go through an arduous process to obtain a new license, which involved a series of lessons and a test.

What is driven here? Well most mums have a four-wheel drive. The Toyota Prado and Land Cruiser are popular. Both are superb cars and hold their value well; easy to sell at the end of your stay. A new Prado will cost around AED140 000, a new Land Cruiser around AED180 000. You'll also find Pajeros, Nissan Patrols, and various Jeeps, and all appeal to different needs and budgets. Depreciation runs at somewhere between 10 and 15% pa. If you can, do get a car with separate air-conditioning in the back. If you arrive in the winter you won't be able to appreciate what a difference it will make for the children in the summer. It's worth paying the extra. Both the Prado and the LC have it. For your second car there are some great choices available. A 1992 Ferrari 348 TS for AED140 000 (but beware of the maintenance bills thereafter!), a 1991 Porsche 911 turbo for AED115 000, a 1999 Corvette for AED130 000, a 1998 Mercedes SLK for AED95 000, a 1997 Grand Cherokee Jeep for AED70 000. (October 2000 prices but prices hardly move). Petrol is cheap here, at AED1per litre; it is 1/6 of the UK price, which makes it affordable to drive cars you may not consider elsewhere. And the driving is relatively easy; you're not worried about it being smashed up all the time. Or vandalised; I've never heard of that happening here. Best place to look for a second-hand car is Gulf News. For a new car, all main dealerships are here.

Useful Publications 

There are a number of publications aimed at the expatriate market. The Connector is published monthly and available for AED10. It contains a lot of useful information to get you started. The publishers of Connector also produce a diary, which starts with September, called Street Smart. I bought a copy in my first year and found it to be really useful. Look out also for Time Out and What's On, monthly magazines telling you, not surprisingly, what's on. "Explorer" and "Families Explorer" are also useful guides. All the above publications have Dubai and Abu Dhabi editions.

Camping

Camping in the desert is a popular weekend activity. Ideally, you shouldn't go out with less than three cars. It won't take you long to find someone who is keen on camping and happy to take you a long. For the less adventurous, an overnight on Jebel Ali beach is an alternative, and if it all goes horribly wrong you're only 20 minutes from home if you live in Jumeirah. If you don't want to go alone, several companies offer desert safaris with entertainment laid on, ranging from half days to overnights. One of the biggest is Arabian Adventures (04 3439966).  

There are a number of places of interest locally for weekend breaks and day trips. In Sharjah (half an hour's drive from Dubai, two hours from Abu Dhabi), there are some fantastic museums (see below) and the Blue Souk is a must for your visitors. The Hatta Fort Hotel is a little oasis at the end of 75 minutes of a long straight drive, passing some beautiful scenery. The rooms are lovely.

They can comfortably house a family and room service is excellent. A half-day looking around Hatta is interesting and our boys could have spent a whole day just throwing stones in the Wadi. Tim was the only one to brave the icy waters though.The first time we went we booked a half-day tour from the hotel, with a guide and it was a good way to do it. I'm not sure we'd have found everything on our own. Al Ain and Abu Dhabi are within a couple of hour's drive. Wadi Bih, which joins the east and west coasts near the northern-most tip of the Emirates is an interesting drive, but it’s currently closed to through traffic. You can make a weekend of it, staying at the Fujeirah Hilton on the east coast (09-2222411) or the Al Hamra Fort hotel, at Ras Al Khaimah, on the west coast (tel.344 6677). A good circular route would also take in Hatta. If you're trying it for the first time, it's considerably easier to find the entrance to Wadi Bih from the Fujeirah side. You wouldn't want to try it with any threat of rain, as it could be dangerous. Oman is a little further but perfect for a long weekend. The most famous hotel there is the Al Bustan and it is beautiful, set within the rocky cliffs, next to the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Oman. It's quite expensive to stay there, and there are plenty of other good hotels. To get to Oman from Dubai drive to Hatta (which is one long straight road from the Dubai Country Club roundabout) and keep going straight. Half an hour past Hatta you get to the border post and you will be required to buy a visa. From Abu Dhabi the route is via Al Ain and Buraimi but they are not the easiest towns to navigate through. For UAE residents, entry visas for Oman are now relatively cheap (about AED 15 pp and AED 3 per child. They will ask to see proof that your vehicle is insured to drive in Oman. If you do not have an Arabic translation of your insurance document to this effect, you will have to pay a further AED 100 insurance before you're allowed to pass, so remember to ask your insurers for that before you set off. Carry on straight, and you eventually hit the east coast and can go no further. Turn right and head South down another long straight motorway, dotted with creatively decorated roundabouts. After about an hour you reach the exit for Sohar Beach Resort. We have stayed there and it was very good - particularly the barbecue brought to your patio. We had a nice time there but it is a way out of Muscat. For Muscat, carry on straight for a further hour and a half, I think. It takes us about 5 hours from Dubai, allowing for the visa processing. Muscat is less modern than Dubai, with all new buildings being in keeping with the old style. It's a beautiful place, especially viewed from the ocean. Hire a boat for a couple of hours or more and ask to be taken to see dolphins. We had literally hundreds of them, skimming along beside us. Diving is popular there too. And there are several diving schools in Dubai and Abu Dhabi who will train you for the PADI qualification.

Holidays

Common holiday destinations from here are The Maldives, The Seychelles, Egypt and Sri Lanka, all of which are about a four hour flight away, or Thailand, Singapore and Australia.

During the summer there is a mass exodus of women and children, heading for home. It is incredibly hot and humid by then and the children do tend to go a little stir crazy. However, it can be difficult and expensive to be away for so long, so a little research on the net will be worth the investment of time. Some expats have a permanent base elsewhere, typically in England, France or Spain, which makes it a lot easier.

It is an appropriate note on which to end to say that I find the hardest thing about living in the U.A.E. is that we have to leave in the summer. It can't be bad, can it?

House Maids 

Most families employ a live-in housemaid. All villas have separate accommodation built-on. It's a bit of a shock at first to be shown a room slightly bigger than a walk-in cupboard with a bathroom attached but they are almost all like that, and you just have to make it as comfortable as possible. Housemaids tend to work six days a week, during hours that suit you, and will baby-sit. It is marvellously liberating to have someone you trust, who your children know and like, always to hand. It will change your life! Try to find someone via recommendation. People advertise on supermarket notice boards. Ask other mums when you're waiting at the classroom door or ask around your compound; your neighbour's housemaid is bound to know of someone. Try to speak to the person they worked for before. The girls who come here are mainly from India, Sri Lanka and the Philippines. They are usually supporting a network of people back home on what to you will be a very limited income. It is not unusual for young mothers to leave their babies with their own mothers and come here to earn money to support them; it's the best chance they can give them. How lucky we are. Other older women will be here to finance their teenage children's' education or launch them into employment. For them, coming to the U.A.E. is a great chance to earn the kind of money they cannot hope to get back home. However, it is not without its problems. They are effectively tied to an employer, as visas are not transferable. If they are badly treated they have the choice of returning home and letting down those who are relying upon their income, or putting up with it. If you are unlucky enough to have problems with a housemaid, at least you are in a position to do something about it. But problems are rare. A fair rate for a housemaid is 1200-1500 dhs a month. Sponsorship will cost you 5000 dhs and a medical card a further 300 dhs. You will need to provide one return trip home a year - roughly, a further 2000 dhs. With bonuses you're looking at 22/25000 pa. You can pay less. But you can pay more. Gracie comes in early to help get the boys to school. She is with me until I get them home again and takes 2/3 hours off in the afternoon before coming back in again to help with tea/bath/bed. I ask her to baby-sit two or three times a week but try to give her notice as she has a life too. I have asked her not to do part-time work for anybody else as its illegal and if she were to be caught we would be heavily fined and worse, she would be deported; she needs this job and we would be extremely upset to lose her. Furnishing a maid's room can be done cheaply in Karama. Ask your maid to take you to a shop. I think we got a double wardrobe, bed, kitchen cabinet, small table, small fridge and hob for less than 1500. The electrical items can be picked up in Carrefour, (Deira City Centre Dubai, and Marina Mall Abu Dhabi) as cheaply as anywhere else. A TV is appreciated but not expected.

There are agencies offering cleaning services at hourly rates, and you can find part-time help if you prefer. The going rate is around 15 dirhams/hour.  

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Living in Dubai - By Jane
(Updated March 2004) 

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Introduction

"Oh Dubai!", people greet the news of your imminent departure in a tone of sympathy, "Isn't that in Saudi? You won't be able to drink you know"

Dubai is an amazing place. It is clean and safe, the standard of living is comparatively high and, notwithstanding the initial pangs of all the things you miss back home, it is a pleasure to be here. In Dubai, many very different cultures live along side each other perfectly happily, tolerating each other's idiosyncrasies, and keeping a respectful distance where attitudes conflict. So you will be careful to dress not to offend when shopping in the local Souk (not that anyone would say anything to you), but conversely, in a typically expat domain, when you're bikini-clad at the beach club, you will not see many nationals. There's a prevailing culture of live and let live. People are open, friendly and helpful.

The demographics are interesting. The estimated population of Dubai in 1999 was 857,233, of which 602,464 were men. There are very few unemployed here. You need an employer to sponsor you. Nationals make up only 15% of the population of Dubai . The balancing 85% are imported labour, from Arabic countries, South East Asia , Africa and everywhere else. Whether you're chairman of a multi-national or working as a housemaid, digging the roads or designing one of the amazing buildings along them, you will be earning considerably more than you would have at home; tax-free of course. And that makes a big difference. People are happy to be here and generally you find all groups of people you come across to be pleasant, friendly and hard-working. Customer service is good. You are likely to find that for you, labour is comparatively cheap and you will probably have a housemaid and a gardener. You will soon get used to pulling up at the petrol station and sitting in your car whilst the attendant fills it up, cleans the windows and offers to check your oil and water. And shopping isn't nearly so arduous with someone to pack it and carry it to your car, and someone else to unpack it when you get home! Work that might be considered menial at home is "a good job" for somebody here. This is a place where East meets West and attitudes are different. It does take a little longer to get used to being called Madam but you can't avoid it. Think of it as a pleasantry, rather than "upstairs/downstairs", and try not to succumb to delusions of grandeur!

For most of us, raising our families in Dubai , we are having a charmed life, thank you very much. Eight months of the year we enjoy glorious sunshine, day in day out. Schools finish at lunchtime so the afternoons are free to enjoy the outdoor life: beaches, pools, parks and many sports and social activities. All in all, you can expect to have a lot more free time; time to enjoy your children, maybe time to work and time to indulge yourself in sports, arts, and coffee with friends. There is plenty here to keep you entertained. So if you've just found out you're moving to Dubai , a "Yippee!" and a double lap of honour around the sofa would not be out of place. Read on.

Geography and Housing

Dubai can be split into districts. Running through the centre of the city is the Creek, which is pretty, dotted with wooden boats (abras), and lined with a mix of the old and the new. North of the Creek is Deira where you will find the spice, fish and most important, gold souks. ToysRUs and M&S are also out there. Back on the South side of the Creek, you're in Bur Dubai. If you have ever walked the streets of Delhi , this will feel familiar. Cosmos Lane is dedicated to fabric shops where you can find both bargains and treasures. Maybe twenty electronic shops compete along side each other on Al Faheidi Road , keeping prices low. It is here also that you will find designer shirts and not-quite-but-almost-designer watches and all sorts of rubbish to send home. Computer shops vie for trade on Khalid Ibn Al Waleed Road.

The Creek

A typical Jumeira villa

Most expat families rent here. There are a few projects where properties are being made available to expats for investment but it is still early days. The apartments around Dubai Marina that are being offered for sale, are priced from AED 750 000 – AED 4,000 000+. A four-bedroom villa in one of the complexes en route to Jebel Ali may cost around AED 2,000 000. Up until recently there was an absolute ban on property being owned by anyone other than the nationals. There are unconfirmed rumours that all property - including Jumeirah - will be made available for sale, and that may affect the long-term investment of properties currently available, further out. But this is very much a planned economy so prices are likely to be protected&. Who knows? If you know you are going to be here for 5 years or more, and your package gives you cash to spend either on rent or a mortgage, then it's definitely worth checking out the options, purely because rents are so high. You can buy a villa on the Palm and enjoy life near one of the Beckham’s holiday homes!

Jumeirah is further classified by number. Jumeirah 1 (nearest to Dubai - Jumeirah Mosque/"old Spinneys" area) is pretty much built up now, full of villas, mosques, hotels, beach clubs and shopping malls. As you move further south, there are more gaps between the houses, empty plots of sand, but they're filling up fast. A typical villa will have three, four or five bedrooms. Many stand alone, or you can opt for a compound. A compound in Dubai means a group of houses sharing facilities. So, it may be 20 houses around tennis courts, a pool and a gym, or ten houses with private gardens and access to a shared pool.

Internet City, Media City, the marina and leisure resort have sprung up over the last couple of years and suburbia is steadily, and quite quickly, spreading south down the coast. Al Barsha, (at J4, across the motorway, near the police college), offers some interesting properties at very reasonable rates, and that area will really flourish when the two new very big malls open at J4 and J5 of the Sheikh Zayed Road. The Lakes and The Meadows at J5 are also new developments and very popular with families, renting and buying. A few km further, you come to Jebel Ali Village, which is just like living in a village, complete with an excellent primary school, a village hall and riding stables. Again prices are reasonable; it's a way out but the town is stretching put to meet them, and once all the new hotels and bars are open in the marina the centre of life will quickly move that way. It's very handy for anyone working in Jebel Ali Free Zone, but Jumeirah isn't out of the way being a 20-minute drive.

If you are offered a visit to look around before you move here, ask to meet an agent to be shown a selection of villas on one of your days. If you have a family and are not interested in an apartment make that clear in advance so as not to waste your time. Prices range typically from AED 85 000 – AED 125 000 per annum for a 4-bedroom villa. In Satwa or Jebel Ali, you may find what you are looking at AED 75 000 – AED 90 000.  Check your housing allowance and make your budget clear to the lady showing you around. If you have narrowed your choice to one or two, try to find someone on the compound or living nearby. I don't know about other nationalities, but it's quite un-British to bother a stranger. However, people are generally pleased to help. Just ask them about the feel of the place; have they lived there long, are they happy there? Also ask about maintenance. All villas come with a maintenance contract. We were blessed (in our last house) with a company that responds the same day to any request but they're not all that good. Before choosing our villa, I spoke to a lady and her little boy in the compound pool, and she soon became my first friend in Dubai. If you want to discuss some options available to you before coming out, you could contact a couple of real estate agents direct. I'm often asked for recommendations but have limited personal experience. I would recommend you wait till you get here and pick up a copy of Gulf News. Each day there is an accommodation section. Pick 2 or 3 big ads, give them your details and they'll select some properties to show you. Specifically, I've only ever heard good things about Better Homes and we, and others I've spoken to, have had a load of hassle, and expense, renting through Dome Real Estate. But we could have just been unlucky.

If you are British, given the general upward trend of the UK housing market, it is worth considering how you intend to keep pace with that whilst abroad. We bought an investment property in London when we first moved to Dubai and have been thankful that we did.

Schools

There are lots of schools here but I will focus on those that I think will interest you most.

Pre-school and Nursery

Good nurseries can have waiting lists of two years + so call to ask about getting your baby's name down as soon as you arrive. Most children go to nursery. They tend to be mornings only, 8 - 12.30, taking children from age 2, typically in classes of 10 with a teacher and a full-time helper. My elder two went to Ladybird Nursery, which is run with a great deal of care and imagination. They have all the usual nursery equipment + Montessori, and teach the children a mixed curriculum. Montessori purists will deny the benefits of such an arrangement, but it worked very well for James and Matt; you only have to look at our kitchen walls to see how their talent has been encouraged! And Sam was equally happy at Palms Nursery which feels very English and "mumsy". They have also been very supportive of a friend with a child needing additional learning support to prepare him for school. There are many to choose from and you can start with the couple nearest to where you are living and go to check them out yourself. In any case, get your child's name down with more than one in case your no. 1 choice is over-subscribed. Yes, there are waiting lists for the most popular nursery schools! Rates vary but expect to pay maybe AED 1 750 for two mornings, AED 2 200 for three or something like that. See also JINS (Jumeirah International Nursery School).

British Primary Schools

The five main primary school candidates are DESS (Dubai English Speaking School), JESS (Jumeirah English Speaking School), JPS (Jumeirah Primary School), Horizon, Jebel Ali School & the newest, JCPS (Jumeirah College Primary School), next to Park 'n Shop. They are all excellent schools and the principal deciding factor for parents is usually location, or where nursery school friends are going. I have friends who have opted for Jebel Ali in preference to the Jumeirah schools - (it has a nice feel to it) - but it is a trek up and down the motorway four times a day, and there are parties and after-school activities to add to the chore. DESS is the oldest of the schools and with JESS; it shares a reputation for standards which is no doubt well deserved. But, as I said, I think all the schools are good. Generally, the schools have classes of 20-25 pupils, each class having a teacher (and a full-time helper for reception), specialist teachers (computing, gym, music) and occasional helpers (volunteer mums who listen to children read or whatever). JESS, Horizon, JPS and JCPS are located next to Safa Park, in the middle of Jumeirah. JPS, JCPS and Horizon cater for a more international mix of children. They each have pre-school KG1 years, as does JESS, which are popular, indeed in some cases, key for securing a place further up the school.

My three boys are in JESS, having a great time, covering a lot of ground and doing interesting things. I chose to keep Sam in Palms for the pre-school year (time enough for 5 days a week at school without starting age 3....) and registered him for a place in JESS Foundation 2 (Reception) for September 2003, in February 2001.  At that time there were only 2 places left in that year of 84 children. So that's what you're up against! There are 72 places in the JESS pre-school year, which will in turn guarantee a place in reception the following year. This then leaves only 12 places for siblings of children further up the school and priority will go to debenture holders. So, the competition for places is at the pre-school stage and thereafter it's down to the fortunes of class turn-over.  However, expat society is by nature, transient so places do come up.

My strong advice would be to register at all the schools as soon as there's a chance you're coming here. I often get despondent letters from mums who can't get their children into one of what they have been told are the 3 best schools. Firstly, opinions vary on which are the best schools. And secondly, take a look at all the good British schools listed as standards really are high. The important thing is not to delay your application as the competition for places is quite intense particularly in Reception, years 1 and 6.

A British school

There are waiting lists for all of the schools and it's worth listing your child with more than one as being on the waiting list does not guarantee you a place.  Check registration fees for each school (some are refundable if a place is not offered).  Waiting lists are a big problem here, and you need to apply as early as you can and as widely as you can. For websites and contact details, see the Dubai Local Pages.

Horizon also has a small number of places available for children with learning difficulties so may be able to give you some advice, if that is a problem you face.  JPS, DESS and JESS (and I would imagine the others but I'm not sure) also give specialist support for children struggling with dyslexia and Dyspraxia.  Again it's worth enquiring if the extra assistance is free or incurs an additional charge. For help outside school, contact the Dubai Community Health Centre on Jumeirah Beach Road.

Fees vary but are typically in the region of AED 7 500 per term. Higher fees do not necessarily match with higher standards, better SAT results or better chances of securing places in the local colleges. Of course, for many of you, companies are covering the costs of fees so it won't be your primary concern but I know not all are quite so lucky.

If you would like to look around any of the schools, they will be happy to give you an appointment. If you know you are coming with a child of school age, telephone for application forms.

In the future I know more schools are planned in Jebel Ali (opening soon?) and Umm Sequiem (English College Primary School, opening September 2004) and they will alleviate the pressure which is a major cause of stress for newcomers.  

There is a Catholic school, St. Mary's which teaches a British syllabus.

British Secondary Schools

There are currently three main options for British syllabus secondary education. And you will undoubtedly come up against Dubai College (DC) being the place to send your child. Well it is an excellent college with superb facilities. It's a long-established, non-profit organisation (the only 1 of the 3) and the years of ploughing the money back into the school are quite evident. It is also generally regarded as being the most academic and the sportiest but to be honest; it all gets a bit silly! Yes it's an excellent school but so is English College (EC) and children emerge from there with superb results, going on to follow whatever paths they have chosen. Jumeirah College (JC) is newer and yet to establish a track record but they will no doubt do well too. Don't write off any of them. You can't afford to. Last year over 400 children sat the DC entrance exams competing for 80 places. There are a further 80 places at EC and the same at JC. Fed from 6 good British primary schools + other schools in the region, I'll leave the maths to you & the pressure for college places is even worse than primary.  Each year a few families have to face very difficult decisions with their children not getting into any of the schools. Does the family leave to Dubai, or look at boarding schools? The key thing again, is to apply to all three as soon as possible. Applications are taken in the first term of year 5 and there are specific dates when you have to get the forms in so don't miss them - it doesn't help that the rules seem to change every year. There are entrance exams for JC and DC, but EC are non-selective; they will review your child's coursework through the year. Rumour has it that Horizon and JESS are looking at opening colleges which would be excellent news for us all. Websites and telephone numbers are available in the Dubai Local Pages section.

Schools teaching the US syllabus

There are two American curriculum schools in Dubai, both of which cover KG1 to Grade 12.  The Dubai American Academy (DAA) and The American School of Dubai (ASD).   Both are excellent schools and have outstanding facilities. My children (Louise) are currently attending The Dubai American Academy.  Although we are British I favour the American curriculum. School fees are significantly more expensive than the British Curriculum Schools.  Expect to pay in the region of AED 40 000 per academic year at DAA and slightly more still at the American School of Dubai (ASD).  ASD has a higher proportion of North American children with DAA being more cosmopolitan, with a significant European/Scandinavian population.

Schools teaching an International syllabus

Emirates International School teaches an "international" syllabus, being a mixture of US and English. It is an excellent school with the benefit of offering one site education from primary right through to age 18. And with education in Britain moving to an IB focus, it becomes an interesting option.

French Schools

French speakers face a possible trek to and from Sharjah, the next Emirate, to Lycée Georges Pompidou (LGP Sharjah). It's only about half an hour or so, but unfortunately it's along the maddest stretch of motorway in the region. So it is even more important for you to get your child's name down as soon as possible for the vastly over-subscribed Alliance Françoise (LGP Dubai), near The Wafi, in Dubai (tel. 335 8712). The International School of Choueifat, (tel. 399 9444) is a Lebanese school, teaching an international/French/Arabic syllabus.

There are also a vast number of schools that serve both the local Arabic-speaking community and those from the sub-continent.

Tertiary Education

I don't know what they have to offer, but this is what is listed along with numbers for you to call:

American University 394 8889 
Aviation College 282 4000
University of Wollongong (Aus.) 266 6400
The British Council 337 0109

Medical

Private medical care is excellent, plenty in supply and expensive. Most people coming in have medical insurance as part of their package. Some insurers are better than others. Each visit to the doctor/dentist will cost you +/-AED 150, a lab test will be maybe another AED 150, and it soon adds up. Some insurers tie you to particular medical centres, but there are many good ones so it shouldn't be a problem. There are a number of extremely good paediatricians. I take my boys to Dr. Waseem at the Manchester Clinic because he is very thorough, and because he explains fully medical matters to me in a way that is simple to understand. I come away knowing what the problem is, what I'm looking out for and what to do when I see it. But my friends are also happy with others. For the grown ups, most of the clinics have male and female GPs. When I was pregnant, like many women here I chose to go to Dr Garda, the gynaecologist at Medlink Clinic. She is a lovely lady and you feel that you can trust her completely which is very comforting in the circumstances. And Dr Janetta at GMC is another excellent gynae; very easy to talk to.

We have an abundance of good dental clinics around.  Be warned they are not cheap.

Even if you do not anticipate using the local medical facilities, it is worth getting medical cards for each member of your family. In an emergency you will probably be taken to Rashid Hospital and although of course you won't be turned away, it's easier to have the i's dotted etc. I have a few friends here who use the local clinics (there's one in Umm Sequiem on the Beach Road, next to The Littleland Nursery). They have found the doctors to be very good, waiting times reasonable and charges much lower than the private clinics. If you're paying your own medical bills it's probably the better option when Little Johnnie has an ear/ throat infection again. I would say most expat babies here are born at the American Hospital (but I may be wrong). A recent competitor is the Welcare Hospital and I hear good things about them too. The American Hospital offers an all-inclusive anti-natal care + delivery including I think, 4 days in hospital for around, AED 11 000, with extra charges for complications and caesarean. Someone told me that Welfare works out a little bit cheaper, especially for caesarean. You should look around both and make your own decision. I was very happy with the American Hospital but I didn't take their package. I saw the antenatal through with Dr. Garda and booked her to deliver Sam. I telephoned her en route to the hospital and she met me there. And the combined bills from both Dr. Garda and the American Hospital were pretty much in line with the package. As for the delivery, as you would expect from an American hospital, all forms of pain relief are available and they make things as easy for you as possible. I wouldn't worry at all about having a baby here. If there are complications however, the best medical care for your baby is available at the local Al-Wasl hospital. (Take the motorway out toward Sharjah and peel off on the right hand side, somewhere near Lamcy Plaza - it's signposted. Take a u-turn shortly after joining the next road). If you're having twins you will have to go there. They have the best neo-natal facilities in Dubai. I have friends who have chosen to have their babies there simply because of the cost, and others, because they felt it was better. As an added bonus I understand the post-natal experience is unforgettable; you are likely to find yourself in a room of four women of different nationalities, which can be very interesting if you're feeling up to relishing a cross-cultural experience at the time! To register at the Al-Wasl you have to go through a gruelling anti-natal process. Register the birth at around 4 months (if you leave it too late they won't want to register you) and you will be called back for monthly appointments, weigh-ins and scans. Take a good book, as you'll have a long wait. Make your appointments for late morning as everything speeds up as lunchtime approaches.

In the Home

Voltage and plugs are the same as the UK, 3 square pin and 220/240 volts. We all seem to have the same huge cookers (because you buy one to fit the space left between the units). Beware when closing the door of a gas oven as you can blow out the flame. The gas then builds up in the oven and when you do open the door, you'll have a nasty shock and singed eyebrows. Gas is delivered (tel.3376686 - when you first call you will need to fax them a map of how to find you, fax.3369814). They come within the day (within the hour if you're lucky) when the gas runs out which is great, but there is no warning so it's a tad irksome if it catches you out on the rare occasion when you're cooking a roast or have guests over. A friend fares no better with her electric cooker; the hob offers her choice of "off" or "boiling", and the oven temperature isn't consistent. What with all that and the fact that, unless you have some circus blood in you, you risk a back injury each time you check what's under the grill, I have to say the cookers are tedious here but it's a minor gripe in the scheme of things. (Tim will be amazed I found so much to say on the subject of cooking). Several restaurants deliver!

All houses are air-conditioned and you'll need it. Be careful of the marble stairs: it's a hard surface on which to fall. Mothercare (Umm Sequiem Spinneys), IKEA (Deira City Centre) and Ace Hardware (Sheikh Zayed Road, near Oasis) all sell stair gates or you can ask your maintenance company if they will make you one. In our experience the charges have been reasonable. My husband used to do lots of DIY but is now too busy, and his free time too precious, so for putting up pictures, raising cupboards from flat packs, I would always get a couple of guys in to do it. Labour is relatively cheap here and they come within a couple of days of me calling. I use our maintenance company. You could start with yours and if they don't have a carpenter, then ask them to recommend someone.

A number of companies offer services along the lines of window cleaning, aircon servicing, mattress de-bugging, and carpet-, sofa- and curtain-cleaning. When you buy electrical goods ask for a contact number for servicing.

Drinking water is delivered (Oasis Water 8005656) weekly. They will also sell you a chiller. We use tap water to clean our teeth. We have had no problems with sanitation. Dubai, in general, is very clean.

There are a number of satellite TV companies in competition here and many villas have cable. We have paid around AED 2 000 p.a. for satellite. The big sports events tend to be shown in local bars where you'll get a better atmosphere.

Having a phone connected is, in most cases, quite straightforward. You need to apply at Etisalat. Remember that you will be served quicker than your husband. They will also set you up with an internet connection. If you are planning to spend a lot of time on the net, it may be worth having an ISDN line put in, which can also be arranged via Etisalat. There's a guy who has set himself up here as PC Medic (tel.336 4742), who will come to your home and get it all going for you.
 
Even if you bring your own furniture, you will probably find yourself in a bigger house than the one back home which is a perfect excuse for indulging yourself in a few tasteful pieces of Asian furniture, which is widely available here. I challenge you to go to Lucky's or Khan's (Sharjah) and come away empty-handed. I suppose lots of people do but I've never managed it. You don't even have to trek into Sharjah any more. Marina Gulf Trading has opened, across the motorway from the Police College. There are lots of great furniture shops here. There are lots of great everything shops here but I'll come to that later.

For curtains and carpets, have a look around Feshwari and Mostafawi in Bur Dubai, near Computer Street and Cosmos Lane. Just park in that area (there is now metered parking on Cosmos Lane) and wander around or ask in any of the material shops and they'll direct you. Or you could go to someone like Jenny at Better Homes who my neighbour is warmly recommending. All these companies give amazing service. They'll come to your house to measure up and be back to lay carpets and put up curtains within three or four days.

If your maintenance company doesn't cover pest control it's worth looking into getting a contract with someone. We use National Pest Control (NPC) and we pay AED 1 000 p.a. for quarterly visits, (when they spray everything), and free follow-ups should we see any creepy crawlies in the meantime. In over three years here, we've had to blitz ants a few times and once I saw a cockroach but it must have flown in from an open window. I've never seen one other than that; not even outside, and we do eat out. Bugs and beasties are a surprisingly small issue here considering the heat and humidity. Flies can be a pain if you are eating outside during the cooler months. And I saw two, apparently dead, sea snakes once. They had been thrown up on the beach by a storm. It's a rare sighting but you'll come across them skimming the surface if you windsurf a way out to sea. Some seasons you'll also see jellyfish, particularly if you're diving. They have a nasty sting but they're not a big problem here. I have digressed but that's hazards that wriggle and writhe covered.

Many people have pets here. Dogs and cats are quite popular (but not like in the UK). K9 Friends and Feline Friends are very active charities. Petland, in the Oasis Centre on the motorway, has a large choice of pets. We've been very happy with our guinea pigs, Zorro and Isabella. I have heard recently of a number of cases of dogs and cats being stolen from people's gardens. With cute pups commanding a price tag of up to AED 5 000, I guess the temptation is too much for some. That would be six months' salary for a security guard/workman.

Banking and Finance

We were banking with HSBC in Jebel Ali but as my husband leaves the banking to me, I found it too inconvenient to deal with them and shifted to Lloyds when they opened a branch opposite Safa Park in Jumeirah. It's like walking into a British bank; all very easy. And since then HSBC have opened a branch on Jumeirah Beach road so that's another option.

Churches

There are a number of Christian churches in Dubai:

St Mary's Roman Catholic Church (Garhoud) Tel. 04-337 0087
Holy Trinity Church (Garhoud) Tel. 04-337 0247
International Christian Church of Dubai (Jumeirah) Tel. 04-344 0828

Clothing Shopping

Don't buy clothes in the UK to bring here but if you're coming from the US I think you'll find things cheaper back home. If you're looking for readymade clothes, Deira City Centre is a good start. There are shops like Mexx, Debenhams, Next and Laura Ashley, alongside various designer outlets. It's a big shopping centre so you have a good chance of finding what you're looking for. To find DCC, go over the Maktoum Bridge in the far right hand lane, heading for Deira. Immediately over the bridge, bear to the right and you find yourself joining another major road. DCC is ahead of you, on the far side of the lights, on the left. Scoot across the four lanes so as to turn left at the first lights. Then take the first right which takes you down the back of the shopping centre and you will see signs to the underground parking.

There are lots of other places to shop for clothes. Burjuman shopping Centre tends to be a bit more upmarket - fantastic shoe shops and designer baby wear, and my personal favourite, XOXO. The WAFI is great for designer clothes shops, Janet Raeger is there and again, there are some amazing shoe shops. In Jumeirah, there's The Oasis Centre on the Sheikh Zayed Road. In there you'll find The Baby Shop which is great for kiddies' clothes, and Ladybird. The Shoe Mart is a discount store with a good range of shoes for children. And there's Splash for cheap, adult clothing. On the Beach Road, there are several smaller shopping centres and they all have their treasures within so just go and explore. DKNY is in The Beach Centre, as is Nine West, a lovely shoes shop (can you see a pattern emerging here?!). Palm Strip, opposite Jumeirah Mosque has some nice shops including Mango and Karen Millen and some great, whacky shoe shops. Elle, near Magrudy's, is particularly busy just before the Classic. Lamcy Plaza, the big pink shopping centre is also worth a mention. It is one building, several floors, leased to many different concessions. I find it a bit confusing with "shops" dotted all over but I have had a few successful shoe shopping trips there. I have a bit of a thing for shoes.   

With so much exposure to the sun, children wear the Australian style of swimsuits (like a T-shirt and shorts) which are widely available here. Wanda boutique in the Jumeirah Pink Plaza (Beach Road) usually has a pretty good choice. Spinneys also have them and most of the sportswear shops.

Shopping - The Mundane

The cost of living here is certainly cheaper than the UK, I don't know about elsewhere. Having said that a girlfriend thinks the opposite, so you'll have to judge for yourselves. As you can't order your weekly shopping from anywhere else, it's something of an academic exercise. In Jumeirah, there are three main supermarkets: Choithrams, Park 'n' Shop and Spinneys, and we all have our preferences. Choithrams is good for fruit and veg and is generally thought to be cheaper than the other two. Like the other two they sell a wide range of goods. I noticed this week, that they have started stocking the Wonder bra, which is a tad incongruous. So, hello boys! Spinneys were the first supermarket here. It has links with Tescos and the experience is not unlike shopping at home. They have also recently set up Spinneysathome.com and it will be interesting to see how successful that is given that most of us are at home and have housemaids. In their Umm Sequiem shopping centre, you will also find an Early Learning Centre and Mothercare. Park 'n' Shop, on the Al Wasl Road, is a veritable tardis of a shop, selling everything from groceries to goggles, camcorder tape to printer ink, towels to toys to toasters. They have a good meat section and bakery. Each supermarket has a pork section kept separate from the rest with goods available for sale to non-Muslims. You may miss a few specific brands of things back home that you can't find here, but not much. Suntan lotion is relatively expensive here. If you're coming from Australia bring enough to last you right up to the latest expiry date!

Carrefour in DCC is a hypermarket, generally thought to be cheaper than elsewhere.

You will find good fish markets in Karama and Deira, and vegetable markets in Deira and Satwa.

Alcohol is available in "off-license" type shops which are tucked away so as not to cause offence. There is both an A&E and a MMI next to Spinneys, Umm Sequiem. You need a license to buy alcohol. Ask whoever is processing your visa to get one for you. It'll cost around AED 300 (from memory). You can also bring in limited supplies when you pass through duty-free and helpfully, they have opened a DF liquor outlet at the point where you pick up your luggage, in Arrivals. Any individual can bring in 8 bottles of anything so if either of you travel with work, that will probably cover your needs. Cigarettes are 6 dirhams a packet everywhere.

Kodak film processors are dotted all over. For best results use Kodak film (no, I'm not on commission!) and for anything special, go to UCF at the Sana Fashions junction on Trade Centre Road, en route to Burjuman.

Local Specialties

There are a few. Gold is cheap here. Gems are not. Silver is cheap here too, for both ornaments and jewellery. Carpets and rugs are beautiful and relatively cheap, (however I must confess to a nagging voice in the back of my head about small children being pressed into making them. sorry, but it does put me off.) Bur Dubai and Satwa have great little shops for rummaging in to find really tasteless Christmas presents for the folk back home. But then, pre-Christmas you'll hit the craft fair season so will be spoilt for choice. The Indian (and other Asian) furniture warehouses are an Aladdin's cave: superb!

Bangles in the gold souk

Tennis